The front seat of my Ford Fiesta while cruising vineyards in France

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Polaner Selections at Gotham Hall

I'm right back in New York, this time for Polaner Selections grand tasting event for the trade at the cavernous Gotham Hall. Like Bowler the day before, this is a portfolio that offers an ample selection for savvy retailers and restaurants. There is too many wines to taste so this requires a brief study of what to look at.
Inside of Gotham Hall. A former bank building.

Polaner has developed a fine selection of Champagnes like Pierre Moncuit, Agrapart & Fils and Gatinois. Of particular interest was a rarely seen dry red wine from Gatinois. Similar to the better known Bouzy rouge, they offer an Ay rouge. This is an elegant, non-sparkling red made from Champagne's red grape, pinot noir harvested in their home village of Ay. It is a style similar to fine Burgundy. I last has this type of wine while dining at a restaurant in Reims, the center of the Champagne trade, a few years ago. 
Louis Cheval-Gatinois and wife of Champagne Gatinois. Louis is holding his bottle of Ay Rouge.

A new item and a stunning value was the Domaine de Pajot Cotes de Gascogne. A delicious, crisp white wine that would sell in most wine shops for $8 to $9. Another new label of interest was from Zuazo Gaston a producer from Rioja Alavesa. Alavesa are actually located outside of the Region of Rioja, just across some hills in Basque country. They have a distinct underlying tang of mineral with the bright, cherry, red berry fruit of the tempranillo grape. At a likely price of $8 to $9, it is another exceptional value.

As pinot grigio has become so popular these days, most are truly forgettable. Not so with Polaner's Muri-Gries from the Alto Adige region of Italy. This has consistently been one of the finest. Their reds made from lagrein are also quite good. Lagrein offers deep red fruits with a backbone of mineral and a fresh finish.
Caterina and Giuseppe Mazzocolin of Fattoria di Felsina in Tuscany. A superior source of Chianti farmed organically and made traditionally.

One of the last items I tasted was also one of the more memorable. Young Julien Masquin was offering his first vintage since taking over his family's vineyard. He make a wonderful Cotes de Rhone and Chateauneuf du Pape in the southern Rhone valley. His style is a welcome shade of elegance from the often brooding wines of that region.
Julien Masquin of Domaine Julien Masquin. He seems to have the admiration of his mother after I complimented his wines.

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